You press the button and nothing happens. Or it starts descending but stops mid-way. Or you hear a hum but the slats don't move. A stuck electric roller shutter is one of the most common (and frustrating) problems in homes and shops.
Don't panic and don't try to force the slats - that is the biggest mistake you can make! The motor's brake can withstand hundreds of kilograms of pressure, and forcing it will deform the aluminium and destroy the axle, multiplying the cost of the damage. In this guide we'll look at the possible causes, how to unlock the shutter manually (if there's a crank) and when you truly need a technician.
Before calling a technician, check the easy stuff first. Many faults are resolved in 2 minutes:
The most common cause! Check whether the shutter circuit breaker has tripped on the panel. Simply flip it back. If it trips again, there's a short circuit (call an electrician). If there's a neighbourhood-wide power cut, wait for it to be restored or use the emergency crank (if available).
Over the years, electrical connections can loosen (especially at the wall switch terminals). Switch off the mains first! Then check if any cable has come loose or been cut.
If the side rollers lack lubrication or if the guide rails have accumulated dust, rust or even ice, the slats can't slide smoothly and the motor can't cope.
A bent slat, a foreign object (branch, flowerpot, broom on the balcony) or debris inside the box can physically block the movement. If the shutter hit an obstacle, the slats often pop out of the side aluminium guide rails or jam at an angle inside the box. Open the cover and check for a mechanical obstruction.
If you hear a hum but nothing moves, the start capacitor likely needs replacing. If you smell burning, the motor has overheated and needs full replacement. This isn't a DIY job. If there's absolute silence (no hum at all), check whether the thermal overload protection has tripped due to overuse - let the motor cool for 15–20 minutes and it will restart on its own. Also rule out a faulty wall switch (contacts wear out over time).
Most decent electric roller shutters include an emergency manual override system. Your installer provides a small "key" or crank and a small hole in the cover or wall.
Insert the crank into the designated hole (usually interior, next to or below the box). Turn anti-clockwise to raise or clockwise to lower. It requires considerable force if the shutter has extruded slats.
If you smell burning or see sparks, don't touch anything. Turn off the circuit from the panel and call an electrician. There's a risk of short circuit.
If your shutter has no manual override (rare in modern motors), the only solution is to disassemble the box or manually release the slats. This requires a technician.
Some faults require professional intervention. Recognise the signs:
If you hear the motor "groaning" but the slats don't move, the start capacitor needs replacing. It costs €15-30 (if only the capacitor is changed).
If you detect a burnt plastic or copper smell, the motor has overheated. Turn off the power immediately. The motor most likely needs full replacement.
If the shutter rises a few centimetres, stops, starts, stops again - the motor is underperforming (possibly due to worn springs or internal mechanical failure).
A quality tubular motor costs €80-150 (depending on torque/power). The replacement labour typically costs €40-80 per shutter. Total: €120-230 - far less than replacing the entire shutter.
💡 Tip: If your electric shutters are over 10-12 years old, it's worth upgrading the motor to a modern model (Wi-Fi compatible). This way you gain Smart Home functionality without touching the slats or the box.
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