Things break. A rough tug from the dog, an awkward movement during cleaning, a forgotten uneven floor tile - your insect screen takes hits in everyday use. But "the screen is broken" does not always mean "I need to replace everything".
In reality, the majority of faults are repairable - if you know exactly what went wrong. In this guide we examine the three most common failures, when a repair kit is worthwhile, when you can do it yourself (DIY), and when full replacement is the only option.
The most common fault - especially in homes with pets or small children. A tear, a hole, a pulled thread. The good news? On roller screens, mesh replacement is relatively simple and cheap, without needing to replace the entire system.
The technician removes the cassette from the wall, unrolls the old mesh from the axle, installs a new mesh cut to the same dimensions and re-tensions the spring. Cost: typically €20-40 per screen, depending on size. The job takes under 15-20 minutes per screen. You can request a reinforced Pet-Screen mesh if the damage was caused by a pet.
Less common but annoying: the screen will not retract on its own and stays suspended halfway. The technician replaces only the spring or return mechanism, without changing the mesh. Cost: €15-25 and 10 minutes of work.
If the aluminium frame (cassette, guide profiles) is bent, corroded or if the plastic clips are broken, a mesh-only change is not enough. In that case, full screen replacement is more cost-effective in the long run. Also, if the same fault keeps recurring on the same screen, the quality of the original product may be too low.
The second most common fault. The Kevlar/Vectran cords hold the screen taut and control its movement. When one snaps, the screen goes slack or hangs to one side.
There is no "patching" the cords. The technician orders a replacement kit (new cassette + mesh + cords) in the exact same dimensions. The external aluminium guide stays in place. Cost: roughly 50-60% of a brand-new screen. Labour: 30-40 minutes.
If the side aluminium profiles are deformed (e.g. from impact), if the plastic sliders at the top or bottom are broken, or if the screen is over 8-10 years old and the plastic parts have become brittle - full replacement is more cost-effective.
The fixed screen (frame) is the only type you can repair entirely on your own, without a technician, in under 20 minutes.
Screen mesh (roll of fibreglass or Pet-Screen, ≈€5 per metre) + spline rubber (≈€1/metre) + spline roller tool (≈€3). All available at DIY stores (Leroy Merlin, Praktiker) or online.
1) Pry out the rubber spline with a screwdriver. 2) Remove the old mesh. 3) Lay the new mesh over the frame, leaving 2-3 cm excess all round. 4) Press the spline into the channel with the roller tool, starting from one corner. 5) Trim the excess mesh with a craft knife.
The rule is simple: if the aluminium frame (skeleton) is in good condition, it always pays to replace only the mesh or the kit.
If the frame is straight, corrosion-free, does not creak. The plastic clips and mechanism work. Only the mesh or cords are damaged. Savings: 40-60% compared to a full new system.
If the frame shows rust, bending, broken plastics . If the screen is over 8-10 years old. If the same fault keeps recurring due to poor-quality original materials - better to replace with a higher-grade product.
💡 Summary: Do not bin your screen the moment it breaks! In most cases, the fault can be fixed easily, quickly and affordably. Always ask your technician first whether a mesh or kit change is sufficient before opting for full replacement - you will be surprised how often the cheaper option is the right one.
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