❌ Without Drainage
If this water has no escape route, it will pool at the base of the wall, create mould, destroy the insulation and eventually pass into the interior of your home (swollen skirting boards, black stains low on the wall).
In the previous article, we emphasised that the cavity (the air gap) between the insulation and the outer brick is perhaps the most critical element of a properly built cavity wall. However, this air gap doesn't just need to exist; it needs to "work".
A sealed, hermetically closed air space inside the wall is the perfect recipe for trapped moisture. For the cavity wall to function correctly, it must breathe and drain water. This is where Weep Holes (drainage and ventilation openings) come into play.
Many people believe that an external wall (especially exposed brick or stone) is waterproof. The truth is entirely different. Bricks and, especially, the mortar joining them, are porous materials. When rain hits the wall with force (especially if accompanied by strong wind), water literally passes through the outer leaf like a sponge and ends up in the internal cavity. Additionally, temperature differences create water vapour (condensation) inside the air gap itself.
If this water has no escape route, it will pool at the base of the wall, create mould, destroy the insulation and eventually pass into the interior of your home (swollen skirting boards, black stains low on the wall).
Weep holes are small, intentional openings (gaps) that the mason leaves in the vertical joints of the outer masonry. They work in two ways:
Water that enters the cavity flows downward by gravity. When it reaches the base of the wall (where the concrete slab is), it finds the weep holes and simply runs back out.
Weep holes are placed not only at the bottom but also at the top of the wall. This creates a continuous natural air current (stack effect) inside the cavity. Air enters from below, dries any moisture on the insulation and the inner face of the outer brick, and exits from above.
If you're building now, make sure your team follows these rules:
They must be placed at the first (lowest) course of external bricks, directly above the foundation, and above every opening (above window and door frames), where water accumulates.
Typically, one vertical joint is left open every 3 to 4 bricks - roughly every 60-80 centimetres.
Because an opening in the wall is an "open invitation" for wasps, mice and cockroaches, we don't simply leave a hole. Inside each weep hole a special plastic or metal mesh (weep vent) is fitted that lets water and air pass but blocks unwelcome visitors.
As we stressed in the previous article, if the mason accidentally drops mortar into the cavity and blocks the base of the wall, the weep holes become useless! Keeping the cavity clean during construction is absolutely critical.
Let's take the west wall of the 10x10 (the one that takes the brunt of heavy winter rain). It's a cavity wall with 7cm XPS and a 3cm air gap.
After a week of continuous rain, about 2 to 3 litres of water have entered the cavity and pooled at the base of the slab. Moisture rises by capillary action (wicking up the wall). In 2 years, the interior plaster at the bottom of the room will start to peel.
Water that passes through the outer brick finds the special membrane at the base, is guided to the openings and exits directly outside. Once the rain stops, the air current created by the lower and upper openings completely dries the cavity in under 48 hours. The wall remains "immortal".
💡 Conclusion: If you choose a cavity wall (especially with exposed masonry), don't let the mason seal it hermetically. Weep holes are the "lungs" and "kidneys" of your wall, ensuring your investment doesn't rot from within.
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