Phase 8 - Sanitary & Furniture Installation: Assembling the Space

Now that the ceiling is painted and the dust from the scuffs has been removed, it's time for the main "protagonists" to enter the bathroom. In Phase 8, the space ceases to resemble yapi and takes on its final form and usability.

The installation of furniture and sanitary ware requires surgical precision and, above all, absolute protection of the new tiles. Carelessness in drilling or a heavy tool falling on the floor can cause irreparable damage.

1. Placing the Basin (Hanging or Floor)

The basin is the first element to be installed, as it determines the movement distances in the space.

Illustration for 1. Placing the Basin (Hanging or Floor)

If you have a Hanging Basin

The plumber attaches it to the bolts of the built-in cistern which was hidden behind the plasterboard in Phase 2. Here it is mandatory to use sound insulation / anti-vibration membrane between the cistern and the tile. If it is omitted, the pressure when sitting will be transferred directly to the tile, with a great risk of cracking it.

If you have a Floor Basin

The basin is leveled to the floor and screwed. Attention: Its base is sealed with the floor exclusively with silicone, never with white cement. The cement will set and, if the basin needs to be unscrewed for a blockage in the future, it will drift and break the floor tiles.

2. Bathroom Furniture & Washbasin: Correct Heights and Support

Illustration for 2. Bathroom Furniture & Washbasin: Correct Heights and Support

Bathroom furniture is subject to daily stress, so its support on the wall must be stable, especially if it is wall-hung.

The Golden Height

The standard height for the top lip of the sink (where our hands rest) is 85 to 88 cm from the finished floor. If you have a table washbasin (bowl type), the piece of furniture must be placed lower, so that together with the height of the bowl, the final result does not exceed 88 cm.

The Waiting Trap

Before the wall is drilled, it is double-checked that the support screws do not coincide with the internal water and drainage pipes that pass directly behind.

3. The Glass Shower Cabin: Safety and Durability

The cabin is the element that will keep the humidity limited.

Illustration for 3. The Glass Shower Cabin: Safety and Durability

Punch without Impact

To fix the metal profiles of the cabin, the craftsman has to drill holes in the wall tiles. This is done exclusively with special porcelain drills or diamond drills, with the electric drill set without impact. If an impact (compressor) is used, the tile will break immediately.

Safety Glass (Tempered)

Crystals of at least 6mm to 8mm thickness are used. During installation, the corners of the crystals should not hit the tile with force, as tempered glass is sensitive to shocks at its edges.

📊 Table of Ideal Distances & Heights

Illustration for 📊 Table of Ideal Distances & Heights
Item of Equipment Correct Measurement Why does it matter?
Washbasin height 85 – 88 cm from the floor Easy to wash without straining the waist.
Free space to the right/left of the pelvis At least 20 cm from any obstacle So that the user does not feel cramped.
Cabin height Usually 180 – 200 cm Prevents shower splashes from escaping.

💡 The Engineer's Advice

"When the cabinet and basin are installed, ask the crew not to throw away their protective boxes. After the furniture is screwed down, the craftsmen should cover it again with the cardboard and nylon packaging. There is one more phase of work (the final connections and accessories) and you don't want any tools to accidentally fall into the brand new sink or onto the basin lid creating permanent marks."

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