Having finished laying the tiles, the bathroom is now "dressed" to the height you have chosen. But before anything resembling a piece of furniture, basin or sink enters the space, the gaze and work must be directed exclusively upwards: to the ceiling (or plasterboard) of the bathroom.
The choice to paint the ceiling at this exact point in time is not accidental. It is a purely strategic move to protect your new equipment and ensure the maximum possible resistance of the space to moisture.
Many DIYers leave painting for last, thinking of it as an "easy finishing job". This is a big management mistake for three main reasons:
To make the ceiling smooth, the painter must putty and, above all, sand it with a manual or electric sander (giraffe). This process produces an incredibly fine, penetrating powder. If your new basin, cabinet and batteries are already installed, this dust will sit everywhere, get into the mechanisms and silicones, making cleaning a nightmare.
No matter how careful the painter is, the roller always "tears" or throws tiny drops. It's much easier to clean a drop of plastic paint off a bare tile than trying to scrape it off a brand new glass cabinet or wooden vanity.
With no basins or furniture obstructing the floor, the handyman can set up their scaffolding or ladder safely, move quickly and paint seamlessly without fear of breaking or scratching anything.
The bathroom ceiling suffers all the time from the water vapors of the hot water.
If the ceiling is concrete, it is scraped well to remove any loose parts. If it is made of gypsum board (which must be anhydrous - green in color), the joints of the sheets are covered with a special self-adhesive glass tape (kraft) so that they never crack.
Acrylic putty putty is applied (usually two coats) to completely level the surface.
This is the step that people in a hurry often "forget". The putty is highly absorbent. If painted without a primer, the paint will peel within a few months. Micronized acrylic primer or solvent primer is used, which "locks" the putty and creates the perfect adhesion bridge for the paint.
In the bathroom, the use of simple, cheap plastic colors is prohibited. You need special "weapons" for areas with high water vapor concentration:
These are special acrylic or plastic paints, enriched with strong fungicidal additives. They effectively prevent the growth of black spots (mold) created by trapped water vapors, especially in the corners of the ceiling.
If your bathroom has no window at all (but only ventilation), it is worth investing in a premium satin or matte paint specifically for "kitchen bathrooms", which creates a washable film that withstands even frequent scrubbing with a sponge.
| Step | Work | Material | Why is it necessary? |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Spatula | Acrylic Putty | Eliminates imperfections and joints. |
| 2 | Rubbing | Sandpaper / Machine | Creates a perfectly smooth surface. |
| 3 | Primer | Micronized Primer | It stabilizes the putty so that the paint does not peel. |
| 4 | Painting (2 hands) | Anti-mould Paint | Protects against water vapor and mold. |
"When the painter finishes painting the ceiling, don't rush to bring in the plumber the same day. The mold-resistant paint needs at least 24 to 48 hours to 'cure' (deep dry and the fungicide chemicals to fully activate). Once that time has passed, the ceiling is now a ready-made, hard shield. Then, and only then, is the space ready to welcome the hygiene products without any risk."
Return to category.
Go to categoryReturn to the central guide.
Go to guide
